Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, a classic chocolate, whipped cream and cherry cake, is staging a comeback in the Black Forest, a wedge of southwest Germany where the dessert was invented in a humble confectioner’s kitchen almost a century ago.

Stretching some 200km east of the Rhine, from Karlsruhe almost to the Swiss border, the Black Forest is something of a misnomer. It is definitely more green than black, unless seen on a snowy day when the landscape appears monochromatic, and it is more a series of thickly wooded hills, high pastures and valleys than one big forest. Scenic roads dip and rise through the region, past farmhouses huddling on hillsides and half-timbered towns with a rustic, fairy-tale-like prettiness. Nearly every cafe serves Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) at 3pm sharp.

Ask the locals where to find the best Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (known as Black Forest gateau in England) and they will probably rattle off the names of a few traditional hilltop cafes, where you have to earn your Kuchen with a brisk three-hour hike through woods of fir and pine, or sing the praises of Oma (grandma) who makes her cake with cream fresh from the cow. Other locals have embraced the new — and highly controversial — Black Forest gateau that can be found in a tin, the brainchild of baker Johannes Ruf who runs the Holzoffenbaeckerei in St Peter. He made the cake small enough to fit in a picnic basket, just big enough to share.

No matter what the size, all are in agreement as to the gateau’s core ingredients — layers of moist sponge and sour cherries, lashings of whipped cream, a dash of Kirschwasser (cherry schnapps) and a dusting of chocolate shavings. Get it wrong and the cake is gooey and boozy. Get it right and the dessert is light and spongy, the sourness of the cherries perfectly offsetting the sweetness of the cream. For a taste of the real deal, try the following spots:

Café Schäfer

Café Schäfer Triberg

Famous as the home of Germany’s highest waterfall and the world’s biggest cuckoo clock, Triberg is a kitsch, quaint, storybook village. The Sheik of Dubai and the BBC’s Hairy Bikers have made the pilgrimage for the prized Black Forest gateau at Café Schäfer, baked by Claus Schäfer, the heir to Josef Keller’s original 1915 Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte recipe. “I only ever bake a couple of cakes at a time and use top quality Kirschwasser, ” said Schäfer. “A little marzipan adds flavour to the shortcrust pastry base, too.”

Café König

The grande dame of Germany’s spa towns, Baden-Baden has been baden (bathing) ever since the Romans discovered the therapeutic benefits of its waters. Today it is a gentrified city of leafy avenues, belle-époque villas and delightfully old-world cafés — none better than Café König. Alongside petit fours, éclairs and fruit tarts that look (almost) too good to eat, sits the crowning glory, Black Forest gateau. Order a slice and do as royalty and celebrities have done before you – savour it on the chestnut tree-shaded terrace, watching the world go decadently by.

Todtnau

Todtnau, Black Forest

If you can never have your fill of cake, consider timing your Black Forest trip to catch the annual Black Forest Gateau Festival. Celebrating the Black Forest’s most famous export with baking contests and brass bands, the festival is held in Todtnauberg, a village with fine views of the region’s highest peak, Feldberg, on clear days. Even if you miss the fun, there is always the option of — whisper it very quietly — taking home a Black Forest gateau in a tin. They last for a year, you know.

Kerry Christiani

6 Dec 2011

http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20111205-the-king-of-kuchen-in-black-forest-germany

Average Rating: 4.7 out of 5 based on 237 user reviews.

This article is written by Aruna Rathod

Cutting-edge technology, coupled with an old world charm, plenty of history, exhibitions and great shopping options make Karlsruhe in south-west Germany an offbeat summer destination. And surprisingly, not many are aware that this city’s fan-shaped plan inspired the layout of Washington DC.

Karlsruhe City plan

Once there, check into one of the efficient hotels right outside the railway station – the Hotel Residenz Ringhotel is a good bet. Of course, the best way to explore the city is to walk (at 14 degrees, it is quite a pleasant experience).

The Ständehaus

One of the impressive architectural marvels of Karlsruhe is the Ständehaus – the building that paved the way for democracy in Germany and once acted as Germany’s first seat of parliament. During the Second World War the Ständehaus was severely damaged by air strikes. The building now houses the city library.

A walk through the winter garden is a must as the place still maintains all the grandeur for which it was the favourite haunt of the dukes and duchesses of yore. A hundred-year-old yew tree stands witness to many historic events and is surrounded by a deep blue carpet of flowers. Fountains, sculptures and artefacts make this place a charming abode and no sooner you walk to the other end of the garden, you are greeted with the magnificent view of the Karlsruhe Palace.

Karlsruhe Palace

Rich history

The grand structure built in the neoclassical style stands at the heart of the ‘fan’ that forms Karlsruhe’s famous city layout. Margrave Karl Wilhelm of Baden-Durlach founded the city. According to legend, the nobleman woke from a dream one day while hunting. In his dream he had founded a new city – thus the name Karlsruhe, which literally means ‘Charles’ repose’. Thirty-two streets that now house the administrative buildings and the marketplatz (market square) form the fingers of the fan. A steep climb of 158 steps to the top of the palace enables one to have a panoramic view of the fan shape.

As you walk out of the Palace grounds into the city square, you see a small pyramid in the middle. Under the pyramid is the tomb of Karl Wilhelm who was buried here in 1807. Initially there was a church on the same site, but it had to be removed when the square was renovated and so the pyramid was built over the tomb.

Day trips

On the border of Karlsruhe is the charming city of Durlach, often referred to as the mother of Karlsruhe. Margrave Charles William first settled in Durlach before moving his court to Karlsruhe in 1718. In the middle of Durlach stands Karlsburg castle. A little single-car funicular takes you up a cliff. The view from the top is amazing and on a clear day you can see the Rhine river. Durlach being on the edge of the Black Forest there are plenty of woods to walk in.

What to eat and drink

Pork Schnitzel

Non-alcoholic beer is now gaining popularity during lunch. Try Flammkuchen – thin base with a variety of toppings or Spatzle (tiny noodles or dumplings) in various combinations – Käsespätzle has cheese and fried onion. Schnitzel is a meat cutlet that’s breaded and fried) served with French fries. Of course, being in this country you must end your meal with Black Forest Cake!

How to get there

  • Many airlines have regular flights to Frankfurt. Karlsruhe is just an hour’s journey on the superfast Inter-city Express (ICE) train from Frankfurt, that touches speeds of 300kmph.
  • For moving around in Germany, the German Rail Pass (which can be bought in Mumbai) is a huge boon for those who want to do cross country destinations without the bother of negotiating the ticket machines. Not to mention, the huge savings that the pass accrues compared to single tickets for each journey.

Aruna Rathod

12 Nov 2011

http://travel.hindustantimes.com/travel-stories/karlsruhe-calling.php

Average Rating: 5 out of 5 based on 293 user reviews.