by Roy -

This article is written by Shantanu Ghosh.

Some of you have been amused I could actually write three posts on Vienna without describing its food in some detail. Actually, I was saving the best for the last! Vienna has much to offer the foodie, more so if you love meat and have a sweet tooth. During my week in this lovely city, I sampled every local delicacy I could find. Between the evenings of fine dining, gourmet coffee at Vienna’s famous cafes and the local desserts, there was enough to keep me content. And of course, there was that evening in an underground wine tavern.

First, let me cover fine dining in Vienna. Armed with recommendations from colleagues who have lived in this city, I ended up in a restaurant that dates back to 1933. A Michelin recommended restaurant, Drei Husaren is located within a block of the famous St. Stephens Cathedral. Started by three hussar-officers, this restaurant changed hands multiple times during its long history. What did not change is its reputation as one of more interesting Viennese restaurants in the old Imperial district.

As you enter the restaurant, the warm colors, paintings of old maestroes and period furniture all contribute to setting the mood. Service is formal but impeccable. Fresh bread and a variety of herb butter spreads arrived as we perused the wine list. We finally settled for an Austrian Pinot.

I started with the Boletus Soup. This mushroom soup, made from the seasonal Porcini and topped with Cappuccino foam with slivers of mushroom, was served in a glass. The soup was highly flavored, served at just the right temperature, and was among the best soups I have tasted. What a great beginning to the meal!

A pianist played compositions of the many local greats, we moved to our entrees. They had charged us €5 per person for the live entertainment, but the pianist was gifted – this was Vienna after all!

For my entree, I chose the Escalope of beef with crisp onions, Viennese-style sauteed potatoes and gherkin. This was another winner. Chewy, but in a good sort of way, and the meat went very well with the deep fried onion.

For dessert, I selected a pancake, The Three Hussars, stuffed with walnuts, and topped with chocolate and strawberry sauce. They also had a Cheese Torte on their menu.

By the time we finished dinner, we had sampled two different reds, both local Austrian wines. While Austria doesn’t export much, they have a vibrant wine culture. In fact like the beer pubs in London and Germany, they have Wine Bars here. Austrians also drink a cider made from a mixture of apples and pear (or only pear). Vienna is the only place – outside India – where I have seen rock sugar offered after dinner with the cheque.

The Drei Husaran is an excellent choice for a special evening in Vienna. The location, the atmosphere and the food are all excellent, as is the service.

Konig Von Ungarn, Schulerstrasse 10

My other fine dining experience was on my final night in Vienna. This time we dined at Konig Von Ungarn at Schulerstrasse 10, just behind the St. Stephens Cathedral. Again, a restaurant steeped in history (this hotel dates back to 1746), orange walls, vaulted ceilings, wrought iron adornments and crystal chandeliers – all of which made for a great ambiance. Dignitaries from St. Stephens once used this place as a guesthouse and horse stables. Of course, these royal visitors also appreciated good cooking. Also, just above this hotel is an apartment where Mozart once lived and composed some of his famous music.

Potato Goulash with grilled turkey sausages

This time, I started with a Potato Goulash with grilled turkey sausages. Please note they also have an interesting hors d’œuvre trolley from which you can select too. I have noticed that goulash is a safe choice in Vienna – I have never been disappointed and tonight was no different. The breads here come with butter and peppers!

Grilled Variation of Fish with truffle oil sauce and almond butter rice.

For my entree I selected the Grilled Variation of Fish with truffle oil sauce and almond butter rice. This dish contained three types of grilled fish – pike, perch, salmon. I loved this dish. The fish was fresh, it was fun to taste the different fillets on the plate at the same time. The sauce complimented the fish and the almond butter rice was wonderful too. All of this with a locally grown ruby red Cabernet Sauvigon that went well with the entree

I chose a Dessert Sampler that had a pudding in vanilla sauce, a chocolate soufflé, and coffee ice-cream with apricot jam. During desserts, they wheel another trolley, this time with a variety of brandies and other digestifs.

At the Konig Von Ungarn, food was good and the ambiance was excellent, but the service was somewhat lacking; the staff was friendly but they kept mixing up the orders. Among the two places I have reviewed here, I would rate the Drei Husaren higher for this reason.

Incidentally, if you enjoy dessert wines, you must try the Austrian Kracher. This wine is made from Welschriesling grapes, which have nothing to do with Riesling, and Chardonnay, which are unusual in a sweet wine. I enjoyed this revered wine, of all places, on my return flight on Austrian Airlines!

Shantanu Ghosh

7 Sept 2008

http://www.shantanughosh.com/2008/09/foodie-in-vienna-part-i.html

Average Rating: 4.7 out of 5 based on 180 user reviews.

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by Roy -

The Philadelphia Skyline

The battle over dining domination in Philadelphia has headed north, as local restaurateur Stephen Starr opens an establishment in Marc Vetri’s fortified Fairmount neighbourhood, and Vetri counters by opening a new bar next door. Starr has strength in numbers, owning nearly 20 restaurants in Philadelphia alone. Vetri’s success comes from high-quality dining.

These two, along with a few other restaurateurs, are bringing new weapons to the battle over Philadelphia’s dining scene.

Starr, the most recognized name in the Philadelphia restaurant scene, opened his latest culinary destination, Route 6, in mid-November. The theme is Cape Cod, whose highway is the Route 6’s namesake. Tributes to the area can be found throughout the menu, with items such as “today’s market fish”, steamed lobster and New England clam chowder.

Diners step into a shore-town atmosphere, where sailboat sails double as curtains, sailors’ knots decorate the walls and a skylight opens up the ceiling. A double-sided fireplace warms the dining room, and a wood-burning oven smokes the food. Starr pays homage to the newest neighbourhood in his kingdom with a platter called The Fairmount (complete with oysters, littlenecks, crab, shrimp and lobster). The Wilkie (double the size of The Fairmount) honours the Wilkie auto showroom, which previously stood at Route 6’s location.

Opening next door in February will be Vetri’s Italian bar, Alla Spina. Vetri, another local culinary superstar, does not have the long list of eateries that Starr has, but he has found success with his unique twist on Italian dining at Vetri, Osteria and Amis. Osteria, located next door to Alla Spina and Route 6, was nominated by the James Beard Foundation for best new restaurant in 2008.

At Alla Spina, Vetri wants to put a table for six on top of the walk-in fridge. Diners will scale a ladder to their table, from which they will be able to look out over the restaurant. Like Route 6, Alla Spina will honour the Wilkie auto showroom by keeping the existing skylights and creating an industrial feel.

Philadelphia’s other restaurateur powerhouse, Jose Garces, owns seven restaurants in the city. The Ecuadorian Iron Chef has staked claim over local Spanish and Latin cuisine with Old City’s Amada, Rittenhouse Square’s Tinto and University City’s Disitro. And though he has not held a ribbon-cutting ceremony recently, he plans to open three copies of successful Philadelphia restaurants in Atlantic City in May 2012. Amada, Village Whiskey and Distrito will all be housed in the Revel Beach Casino on the Boardwalk.

Blackfish Chantrelle

Philadelphia’s fastest rising chef/restaurateur is Chip Roman, whose popularity soared after Blackfish in the Philadelphia suburb of Conshohocken was named best restaurant by Philadelphia Magazine in 2010. Last month he opened Ela in Queens Village with up-and-coming chef Jason Cichonski.

Seared Magret Duck Breast with Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Haricots Verts and Brandied Cherry Reduction Sauce Recipe at Ela

Roman, who studied under Vetri and Le Bec-Fin’s Georges Perrier, shows off creativity and flair with his new venture. The menu includes diver scallop noodles with root vegetables and blood orange, and duck magret with pretzel spaetzle, Brussels sprouts and butternut squash. The co-owners have fun with the drinks menu, offering cocktails with names like “Jude Law and a Semester Abroad”, “Jaws Theme Swimming” and “Okay I Believe You but my Tommy Gun Don’t”.

In the war over high-end dining, Starr, Garces, Vetri and Roman continue to claim different neighbourhoods and culinary themes. But as Philadelphians’ palates continue to improve, the demand for new and more creative restaurants will grow, making room for young and energetic chefs to jump into the spotlight. In this war, the real victors are the diners.

Terry Casey

30 Dec 2011

http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20111229-philadelphias-high-end-restaurant-battle

Average Rating: 4.8 out of 5 based on 248 user reviews.

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by Roy -

This article is written by Cyrus Dadachanji, an avid food journalist, storyteller, non-fiction film and TV scriptwriter, researcher, advertising copywriter and poet, based in Mumbai

If you thought dining out in London meant eating Fish ‘n’ Chips, you’re in for the surprise of your life!

Welcome to London. A bustling, throbbing megapolis that is a delight for the senses in every sense of the word. If you love food, this is the city of your dreams. Name any cuisine and you’ll find it here. Not surprpising that the humble Indian Chikken Tikka has been voted as the most popular dish in Britain. That in itself says a lot for the adventurous nature of the British palate, tired of being brought up on a diet of bland roasted food. The new mantra in London seems to be… the more exotic the better. And restauraunteers have taken traditonal British hospitality to its logical end, falling over backwards to cater to these newly evolved tastebuds. So, let’s go on a gastronomical tour de force of London’s restaurants, one cuisine at a time.

When in Britain… well if you followed that dictum, you’d probably end up eating almost everything except British food. However, food represents the nature of a country and its people, lets tuck in to a little Brit grub, to begin with. Britain lives in its pubs and that’s where you’ll nvariably find the best pub grub. Check out The Anglesea Arms near the Ravenscourt Park tube station. This is one of the few pubs to have a Michelin star (which is the highest rating for resaturants in Britain). You can have a good meal for around 12 – 15 £. With dishes like calves’ liver, which melts in the mouth, the food is nothing short of adventurous and consistently good. Try having two starters instead of a main course and you’ll never be disappointed. Not for nothing has the Anglesea Arms has been voted s one of the best Value for Money establishments in the city. If you’re in the mood for some excellent roast duck, drop in at The Chiswick, near the Turnham Green Tube station. It’s a modern sort of restaurant with a pleasant amibience and an excellent selection of of new world wines, making it the perfect place to sup one evening.
While Mackintosh’s near Turnham Green station is a great place to take the kids along Try their Eggs Benedict and Curried Potatoes for a hearty Sunday Brunch. You can give the kids bowls of pasta to mess around with – and the restaurant stocks crayons so they can draw on the paper tablecloths! Stick to the food here and the ales; don’t experiment with the cocktails. Of course, in most British resturants, you’ll find the typical pot roast, steak and kidney pie and the ever popular fish ‘n’ chips or kippers (mackerel)… but there are many more culinary delicacies waiting to be discovered.

“The nice thing about dining out in London however is that there are restaurants to suit every budget, even among what may be called speciality resturants.”

Steak & Kidney Pie

For those who like their food lightly flavoured, with a hint of herbs, London has a fine selection of European and French restaurants. The nice thing about dining out in London however is that there are restaurants to suit every budget, even among what may be called speciality resturants. What’s more, most resturants, especially the Continental ones create an ambience of sophistication, blended with authentic décor. So tuck in your serviettes messeieurs and take a seat, while the aromas of Europe tease you and the food tittilates your tastebuds. But be sure to book a table well in advance, for some exclusive restaurants have a 6 week waiting list!

Granita, near Angel Tube Station all the makings of a terrific restaurant. The ambience is perfect, the service, impeccable and the food, simply divine. A mouth watering menu is backed up by perfect service. If you’re a vegetarian and wondering wheteher you should step in, there’s a good range of vegetarian dishes that are equally inspiring. But just make sure you call up and book a table, because Granita is very popular with the people in the neighbourhood.

Step out of London proper to the neigbouring borough of Kent and you can dine under the stars, with a gurgling brook serenading you as you tuck into your meal. Welcome to the Haxted Riverside Brasserie near Haxted, Edenbridge (main line). Few restaurants can beat the Brasserie in terms of ambience, service and the quality of the food served here. What’s more, the locale and the climate give your appetite the boost it will need to knock off the huge portions. Back in the city,  The Abingdon is a trendy bar and restaurant nestled behind Kensinghton High street. The bar is spacious with seating at round tables and the ideal place for a drink if your table is not ready. The restaurant has quiet booths which are very comfortable and intimate, but still alow you to see what’s going on around you. The menu changes regularly, so you never know what you may find on your nextt visit. For starters, try the mussels mariniere and carpaccio of beef with a walnut dressing. The Abingdon has an exotic menu which includes Grilled noisettes of lamb with mustard sauce, brochette of scallops and squid with lemon tagliatelle and rabbit pie. They have a lemon creme brulee and rice pudding with berry compote on the desert list and both are simply out of this world… as is most of the food served here. So, if you’d like to taste European food, as it really should be cooked, the Abingdon is your best bet.

Average Rating: 5 out of 5 based on 220 user reviews.

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by Roy -

Marrying the choicest of world wines with signature cuisine, these landmark restaurants from around the world offer the connoisseur an experience as irresistibly sensory as a musical symphony.

Kaminstube, Hotel Zur Tenne, Kitzbühel, Austria

The Kitzbühel Band’s spirited rendition of Mozart’s violin concertos added to the quaint romanticism of the evening as we feasted on spinach Käse, pumpkin ravioli in butter  cheese sauce and a 2008 Grüner Veltliner ‘Das Beste’ white wine by Weingut Malat Höhlgraben from Kremstal. Then came the Tafelspitz (prime boiled beef). Served with roasted potatoes, creamy spinach, apple horseradish and cheese sauce, it did gourmet justice to our palates. This was paired with the award-winning 2007 Erich Scheiblhofer ‘Legend’ Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend from Burgenland.
The hotel’s chocolate pastry specialities, apple strudels and Kaiserschmarrn  (pancake slices with plum compote) melded perfectly with a 2006 Ewald Diem Blauberger Exklusiv from Niederösterreich.

Atelier, Hotel Bayerischer Hof, Munich, Germany

At this new and earthy-design five-star dining destination in vibrant Munich, fine vintages complemented exemplary cuisine.

It all began with a fine 1999 Taittinger Rose Brut vintage champagne that added to the gourmet delights of spring leek, garden almonds and peacress prepared by chef Steffen Mezger.

Our sweet-and-sour cabbage in butter and Bavarian-style wheat beer matched perfectly with Baldauf Winery’s 2008 Spätlese fine wine. Limited edition Bavarian-Franconian wine varietals kept pouring in as we savoured  freshwater crayfish with tripes and white summer cabbage. The splendid companion was an Apriles 2009 vintage Trocken red wine from Castell’s Schlossberg vineyards.

Stella, The Leela Kempinski, Mumbai, India
The opulent décor and kosher Italian fine dining at Stella won us over completely. Diffused glows and raw silk drapes wooed us to a Prosecco Colmei extra dry sparkling white wine, which was paired with a refreshing tuna tartare and fresh avocado with sweet-and-sour pumpkin, celery and balsamic vinegar.

The fine dining romance continued with pan-roasted sea bass, eggplant parmigiana and carrot mash. Complementing the Italian delicacies, perfected by chef Marco Priolo, were a Prosecco white wine sauce and a fruity Pinot Grigio Lis Neris from Friuli. The asparagus barley risotto with Taleggio cheese and roasted pine nuts harmonised with a fine Ceretto Barolo Zonchera red wine.

With Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons summing up the sojourn for us, chef Priolo’s unique yogurt-peach mousse, passion fruit meringue, pistachio sauce synergised with an Umberto Cesari Tauleto Sangiovese Rubicone from Emilia-Romagna.

Kishore and Smita Iyengar

4 Jun 2011

http://www.businessworld.in/businessworld/businessworld/content/Nectar-Diners.html

Average Rating: 4.5 out of 5 based on 179 user reviews.

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