by Roy -

This article is written by Manoj Radhakrishnan, an engineer and a travel photographer & writer based in Pune

The Ngorongoro Crater

Ngorongoro, pronounced as it is written, is a caldera. Caldera, when translated to english, roughly means a crater which was created by a collapsing volcano. The Ngorongoro volcano, once upon a time, was actually taller than Kilimanjaro. Today with a diameter of 16-19 km this is easily the largest crater in the world. The view that one gets of the crater from anywhere along the rim is absolutely stunning. From the rim, the 265 sqkm large crater bed can be seen dotted with animals and with a closer observation, may be with a help of binoculars, one can not only spot herds of buffalos and wildebeest but also some pride of lions or even rhinos.

The largest land mammal : An African bull elephantNgorongoro is a queer ecosystem by itself. The crater has all the basic elements of a large national park – herbivores, cats, pachyderms, scavengers and needless to say a lake and a small ‘forest’. And this very fact that the crater is a separate ecosystem combined with the hand of man is threatening its very existence. The lions for example have been denied their free access to and from the Serengeti plains after the government allowed the Masaai people to inhabit the land around the crater. This obviously has lead to severe inbreeding and the lion population has gone down from about 100 to 45. The hotels around the crater rim are responsible for the lowering of the water level in the lake A well-fed hyena and this is leading to a slow death of the small forested area in the crater. Rhinos anywhere give a headache to the authorities, but when you have just 15 (all that the entire country has) living in the crater depending heavily on the depleting forest, they make solving the lion’s problem seem like a stroll in the park. The elephants face a different kind of problem – lack of mates. For some strange reason, the crater’s entire population of pachyderms is comprised of the bulls. In addition to the above, when we visited the place, the authorities had a new crisis to handle – in the form of a buffalo epidemic. For reasons still unknown then, the buffalos in the crater were dying in large numbers due to what looked like a skin disease. There were fresh carcasses every day, scavengers everywhere. Whatever it was that was killing these buffalos, fortunately, didn’t seem to affect the other animals. Hyenas, one of the well fed scavengers of the crater, are normally found lying around in puddles. The reason they do that is to cool their bodies; mainly to dissipate the heat generated by the high metabolic rates. The high metabolism is prescribed by their eating habits – a direct result of filling their stomach with bones and other hard-to-digest matters.

Endangered ones: The Black RhinosThe Tanzanian government, the park rangers to be precise, should be complimented for taking care of the 15 rhinos in the park. I don’t think any other set of people can show better dedication or commitment than these wonderful rangers. A park ranger does a head count of all the rhinos every morning and a ranger along with a couple of Masaai helpers spends every night down in the crater next to the rhinos just to make sure that the poachers are kept away from those USD15 million horns – yes, that is how much I am told the horns are worth! Not only are the number of visitors and the visiting hours strictly kept under control, but their journey in the crater is also kept under strict vigilance by park rangers who keep peering through their powerful binoculars all day, sitting in the huts along the slopes of the crater.

A rare sight: A hippo out of waterThe lake at the bottom is filled with pink flamingos and hippos. Hippos, I am told, are responsible for more deaths than any other creature in Tanzania. They, with their powerful jaws and big bodies, have overturned, sunk and broken innumerable boats in the lakes and rivers of Tanzania. Evens lions keep their distance from these huge animals. Crater is also a good place to witness the famed ‘queue’ of wildebeests, which come to the lake in this seemingly never ending line everyday to quench their thirst. We were also very fortunate to witness a kill in the crater. We saw a hapless zebra falling a victim to a hungry lioness. But the pick of the Safari in the crater was spotting 6 of the 15 rhinos of the crater.

Ngorongoro crater is also the coldest of the 4 parks in northern Tanzania. The rim is at an elevation of 2000m and in case you are camping there, I would advice you carry enough warm clothing. Ngorongoro is strategically situated in between civilization and the great Serengeti plains. The location becomes more important when you consider that every vehicle going to Serengeti must pass through Ngorongoro and hence pay the entrance fees. Crater, therefore, ends up getting paid twice!

Manoj Radhakrishnan

2008

http://www.travel-notes.org/ngorongoro.html

Average Rating: 4.9 out of 5 based on 289 user reviews.

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by Roy -

This article is written by Anand Palit

Mine goes like this. Rise up in the morning, go to a largely secluded island, laze on pristine white sand, go for a swim, have a wonderful meal, and take in some wonderful flora and fauna.

Normally it’s pretty difficult to get all of this on one excursion. There’s always been something missing from my wishlist above, wherever I have been to. However, when I went to Mauritius for my honeymoon, I actually found a place that offered it all – Ile Aux Cocos.

The island of Ile Aux Cocos

Farah, who so wonderfully planned my honeymoon vacation, had recommended that we spend a day at Ile Aux Coco during our stay in Mauritius. When I look back, the trip to the island was the best part of a already great vacation.

Fish around Ile Aux Coco –sights that need to be seen, cannot be described

We were whisked off to Ile Aux Coco on a speedboat in the morning. As you approach the island, the sight of the clear blue sea and the mangroves already fills you with a sense of delight. We were greeted by an amazingly courteous and friendly bunch of staff at the island. While the standards of hospitality are really high in Mauritius, wait till you get to Ile Aux Coco. The staff is extremely high on service quality, and go to that extra mile to make you feel comfortable (such as getting a curry dish especially made for us, once they got to know we were from India, though we didn’t have to ask for it at all!)

Ile Aux Coco as we approach it, notice the white sand

If you want to laze on the beach, Ile Aux Coco is the place to be. Wonderful white sand, and just the right temperature and breeze, to lie on the beach while sipping a relaxing drink. If you are the active sorts, Ile Aux Coco gives you the option to go snorkeling and/or a glass boat ride. This is highly recommended, as the vibrancy of sea life that you see here is unparalleled.

After your snorkeling getaway, when you want to sit down for a nice meal, there’s a wonderful barbeque waiting for you. You might think the natural beauty of the island and the water life around it is unmatched by any experience, but the lunch spread does come pretty close!

All in all, it was an experience to savour and something me and my wife would remember throughout our life. If you’re going to Mauritius, you just can’t give Ile Aux Coco a miss.

 

Anand Palit

3 Dec 2011

http://www.thewanderers.travel/blog/index.php/880/

Average Rating: 5 out of 5 based on 242 user reviews.

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by Roy -

 The Nyamulagira 

The Democratic Republic of Congo’s Virunga National Park is inviting tourists on treks to witness the Nyamulagira volcano spewing geysers of lava into the night, a park official told AFP Tuesday.

Volcano fanatics will have to pay $300 (220 euros) to be escorted to a viewing site in the east of DR Congo, a country wracked by conflict and ranked the world’s least developed by the United Nations.

“We thought if we can find a volcanologist to assess the situation and find a safe spot, why not allow people to go?, ” park spokeswoman LuAnne Cadd said.

“The new tented camp for visitors is located just south of the erupting volcano in a close but safe area, selected by volcanologist Dr. Dario Tedesco with the Goma Volcanological Observatory, ” a statement said.

The eruption of what is considered Africa’s most active volcano began on November 6 and has since intensified, with park officials reporting lava fountains reaching up to 200 metres (650 feet) in height.

“The volcanic eruption has not shown signs of slowing or stopping. Eruptions can last from a few days to several months, ” the statement said.

Luanne Cadd said three Tanzanians, all tourism professionals, and a Rwandan took part in the first trek over the weekend.

Six tourists have since gone on the three- to four-hour overnight expedition, for which the park provides transport from the eastern city of Goma. Another 24 are lined up to do it before the end of the week.

Rivers of glowing lava are flowing slowly into an uninhabited area of the park and pose to danger to Virunga’s endangered population of mountain gorillas, the statement said.

17 Nov 2011

http://travel.hindustantimes.com/travel-stories/erupting-volcano-dr-congos-hottest-new-tourist-attraction.php

Average Rating: 4.9 out of 5 based on 221 user reviews.

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by Roy -

Just off Marrakesh central square – Djemaa el-Fna – lies some of the most enticing souks in Morocco. The immense market is home to food vendors, storytellers, musicians, tattoo artists and snake charmers…and the list goes on.

Djemaa el-Fna

Fascinating, spell binding, alluring – and the list of adjectives could go on if we were to describe the Marrakesh Market – where the exotic world of snake charmers, musicians and riot of colors and cacophony of sounds bring the market alive and enticing enough to take a day out and revel in the magic of it.

Its ancient history revolves around desert caravans and pirates; its low red buildings are framed by the snow covered High Atlas mountains. The square around, which the city is centered is easily the most alluring of any African market.

It is so easy to get lost in the shrouded alleyways, which leads us into a darker, narrower lane that snakes into a twisty clutch of passageways, each nudging us in directions we can neither predict nor resist. But then, at the end these labyrinthine byways all funnel back to the main square – eventually.

Spices in Marrakesh

And in your journey through the sights, smell and sound of the souks…you chance upon its very soul which pulls you back into its fold. Enveloping you in its magic and transporting you into a world like none seen before.

Amid the dense souks, you’ll find objects to sate every sense. Monkey trainers, snake charmers, henna artists, carpets for the feet, candies for the tongue and scores of potent spices for the nose, people standing over huge boiling cauldrons dyeing wool whilst their neighbours measure out spices on old lead scales. Music acting as a layer to the souk…and over cups of sugary mint tea, with chat of family and country bartering and haggling seals the deal.

Whilst you go to the square at different times of the day, and you’ll keep seeing it reborn. At times, storytellers spin tales. At others, the food stalls dominate the scene, packed with everything from dried fruits, nuts and orange juice to gleaming rows of calf brains.

The flavor of the market is it’s salesmen – aggressive, pushing everything from rugs to perfume, with prices “just for you, my friend.” With the  happy cacophony of sounds – honks, braying of the donkey, the blaring music which keeps the shopper enthralled – it is a world of havoc – captivating havoc…

For a flavor of culinary heritage

Four-course meals are common here, the freshest salads, and meat platters ladled over fine bowls of couscous in the steaming tagines.

Pastilla

A must taste: Pastilla, a meat or vegetable pie with powdered sugar on its crust. There’s also fresh bread here to rival anything from Italy or France.

The mechoui sellers’s delicious slow-cooked lamb flavoured with cumin and salt is not to be missed. Stalls selling aromatic bunches of mint compete with colourful displays of ras al hanout, a popular spice blend, and jars of preserved olives and red peppers.

Visiting the bazaar

Thumb rule: If you decide to buy, the name of the game is to haggle. Offer about a third of the original price presented to you. You may as well make yourself comfortable as negotiations can take hours and be prepared to drink numerous cups of sweet mint tea in the process. It may also be possible to swap things, if you have designers T-shirts or trainers for example that you are prepared to give up.

The most interesting time to visit the souks is in the early hours of 5 – 8am, or late afternoon around 4-5pm when local traders can be seen bargaining for goods. Most stalls are closed in the evenings, although a few stay open till 7 or 8pm. It’s also worth noting that some souks are closed on Fridays, the holy day.

23 Mar 2011

http://www.thewanderers.travel/blog/index.php/morocco-marrakesh-market-a-treat-to-the-senses/

Average Rating: 4.8 out of 5 based on 200 user reviews.

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by Roy -

This article is written by Manoj Radhakrishnan, an engineer and a travel photographer & writer based in Pune

Mount Kilimanjaro is the tallest peak in Africa and at a height of 5895 m, it is also the tallest free standing mountain in the world. After climbing the mountain, I can say that if you are thinking of climbing the tallest in each continent, Africa would not be a bad place to start. There are many paths up the mountain and the Marangu route, the one I took, is the easiest and due to this reason, is also known as the Coca-Cola route. The climb is gentle and only at the very end would you be required to use all four limbs. There are tougher routes – whisky route, rum route etc. available to the professionals.

The climb (via the Coca-Cola route) starts at the Marangu gate which is at an elevation of about 1800m. A good 3 hr walk through thick rain forests would bring you to the lower camp – Mandara, which is situated at an elevation of 2727m. A 15 min short hike from the hut would take you to a crater called Maundi, from where you can get very good views of the Horombo village and the surrounding tropical forests.

On the second day, you climb for 5 to 6 hours to reach the middle hut – Horombo. The hut is situated at an elevation of 3720m and during the hike to this hut was the first time I encountered altitude sickness. And it wasn’t very pleasant, but more about that later. After about an hour from the Mandara hut, the thick rain forest gives way to shrubs and the views just get better and better. It is here where the Mt. Kilimanjaro presents its first view to the climbers. From Horombo one can get a real good view of both Mt. Kilimanjaro and Mt. Mawenzie, that is when they are not under a thick cloud cover.

The third day, for some, would be spent in acclimatising to the altitude. Since this was the first time I am reaching these heights, I thought it wouldn’t be a bad Zebra rock idea to spend an extra day up the mountain. How helpful the extra day is in reaching the summit, I know not, but there are many who believe that it is a waste of time and money. During the day, we took a short 3 hr hike up to 4300m. On the return leg of this hike, I realised for the first time, how easy it was to travel downhill. If only we could climb a mountain downhill… The hike takes up to a vantage point in-between the two mountains and apart from the two wonderful peaks, all that I remember of the hike is spotting a rather peculiar collection of rocks called the zebra rock, named mainly due to the alternate black and white stripes found on them.

The task on the fourth day is a 5 to 6 hour hike from Horombo hut to the top hut – Kibo hut. Apart from the initial and final stretch, the bulk of the hike is on near flat land. But the altitude makes up for the lack of steep climb. Kibo is situated at the foothills of the Kilimanjaro peak and is at an elevation of 4703m. Kibo also marks the point where visitors start saying the dreaded word “enough”. Needless to say, the place was very cold and did not have any heating. As if these weren’t enough, we had a snowfall that evening, which in hindsight, wasn’t that bad a thing to happen. One it warmed up the place a bit, as a snowfall anywhere would. Secondly, it also helped in binding the rocks on the path, making it a bit less slippery. We had an early dinner this evening and slept early – not that the dinner times on the other days were much later, but having dinner at 530 would count as early in most people’s dictionary.

Sunrise at Gillman'sThe reason we had to sleep early on the fourth evening was because our final ascent on the fifth day started at midnight. There are three reasons why we started so early for our summit climb. The most important of them all was the fact that the peak normally gets completely covered by thick fog by 8 in the morning. So it is imperative that you come back by that time to Kibo hut and as the summit is about 5 hrs away, you are forced to start at midnight to beat the fog. The second reason was to make it to the top when the view is the prettiest, viz., the sunrise and the final reason was to avoid travelling during broad daylight when you can get a good view of the steep path lying ahead of you. The importance of the third reason became evident when I looked back at the path after returning to Kibo hut. I certainly wouldn’t have agreed to move an inch if I had seen the path before.

I passed the 5000m mark, William’s point, at about 2 in the morning and somehow crawled to the top by quarter to 6, in time for the spectacular sunrise. By top, here, I mean Gillman’s Point which is at an elevation of 5685m. The actual highest point, the Uhuru peak is 210m higher and more importantly a good 2 hr walk from Gillman’s Point. The effect of altitude combined with the knowledge that I would anyway get a certificate even if I reached only Gillman’s Point, prevented me from going any further.

A Kilimanjaro travelogue would normally end with the person scaling the peak. But mine has to carry on till I reached the Marangu gate. The conquerors Instead of spending the fifth night at Horombo, thanks to my tight schedule, I was forced to descend all the way to Mandara hut. I reached the bottom hut at 4 in the evening of the fifth day, and since my day had started at midnight, I ended up having a 16 hour morning walk with a small breaks at Kibo and Horombo. Breakfast in Kibo, lunch in Horombo and dinner in Mandara and that too after climbing up and down a brute of a mountain – it wasn’t easy. My only solace was the knowledge that I wasn’t alone in attempting the madness. My partner in crime was an Essex gentleman, one Mr. Garth Freeman and (I quote him here) : “After this, all that I am left with is a story to tell my grandchildren: your grand dad walked up the tallest mountain in Africa one day, and walked straight back home.”

I would not have reached the top if not for my guide, Steven Mtui, egging me on in the last 30 minutes of the climb and I am eternally grateful to him for showing me the best sunrise of my life. In helping me climb the mountain, no less part was played by my three wonderful Canadian climb mates – Leanne, Cheryl and Holly. As if climbing and staying with 3 lovely young ladies is not a motivation by itself to climb the hill, I was also able to reap the benefit of their profession: they were all nurses. Their wonder drug would always cure the strongest of my headaches. Without them, I wouldn’t have gone anywhere near the peak, especially when I couldn’t eat properly after 3500m, think properly after 4300 and breathe properly after 5000.

Will I ever want to return to Kilimanjaro? Not until they find a water route. Coca cola is too strong for me! I am happy that I made it within 200m to the top of highest peak in Africa – after knowing what happened to Ngorongoro, I think I should say : highest peak in Africa as of the 2000th year after the birth of Jesus of Nazareth.

Manoj Radhakrishnan

2010

http://www.travel-notes.org/kili.html

Average Rating: 4.8 out of 5 based on 274 user reviews.

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by Roy -

Uganda is a highlights reel of the African landscape. With its dense, misty forests, snow-peaked mountains, glassy lakes and sprawling savannas, it is no wonder Winston Churchill dubbed this the “pearl of Africa”.

Tutsi men celebrate their heritage with a joyous ritual dance

Having stepped out of the shadows of a deep dark past under Idi Amin and the Lord’s Resistance Army, Uganda is no longer a country to be feared; in fact is widely regarded as one of Africa’s safer destinations. Whether you are looking for mountain gorillas – the country’s primary allure — wildlife safaris, volcano trekking, whitewater rafting or just kicking back on the beach, Uganda has the best of Africa covered. Here are four unmissable Ugandan experiences — and where to find them:

Gorilla tracking

A female Gorilla gives her offspring a ride at the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

One of the quintessential Ugandan attractions is tracking mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, and nothing quite prepares you for the first glimpse of black fuzz amid the dense foliage. The adrenaline kicks in when you are up close to the imposing figure of a silverback, and it is all very Dian Fossey-like when curious babies peek through the leaves,  twisting, turning and somersaulting for your entertainment. Gorilla permits will set you back a hefty $500, but do not think twice about forking out for this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Keep in mind that a portion of the fee goes to the park and gorilla conservation initiatives, helping to ensure their survival.

All the animals, minus the crowds

Murchison Falls National Park

While it lacks the recognition of its big-name neighbours like the Serengeti and Kruger Park, Uganda’s national parks have all the animals, minus the crowds. In Murchison Falls, Uganda’s largest park, follow your morning wildlife drive with a cruise down the Nile to the base of the falls. It is the perfect way to spy elephants, buffalo, crocs and loads of hippos while relaxing on the boat with a beer. Head to Queen Elizabeth National Park for a better chance of spotting the elusive leopard or its trademark tree-climbing lions. Few tourists make it as far north as Kidepo Valley, but those who do are rewarded with a fantastic selection of animals and some of the most spectacular scenery in the country. If you are hoping to tick off the Big Five, add Ziwa Sanctuary to your itinerary to get up close to white rhino, which you track on foot.

Adventure by the bucketload

Rwenzori Mountains

Adrenaline junkies can get a fix any way they like in Uganda. With its Grade-5 rapids, the Nile is a magnet for whitewater rafting enthusiasts — or try kayaking or a white-knuckle jet boat ride. Those who prefer a different kind of plunge can opt for bungee jumping by Bujagali Falls. Trekkers can test their endurance by tackling the Unesco World Heritage-listed Rwenzori Mountains, evocatively described as the “Mountains of the Moon”, with stunning views of the equatorial mist as a reward at the top. For more treks try Mount Elgon National Park or the dramatic Virunga volcanos where the borders of Uganda, Congo and Rwanda converge. Adrift Adventure can sort out all your whitewater needs, while Rwenzori Trekking Services will assist with your trek to the moon.

Scenery to die for

The scenic Lake Bunyonyi

Once the safari addiction wanes and your body needs some rest from those bone-jarring bus journeys, Uganda has some beautiful spots for relaxing. Magical Lake Bunyonyi has intoxicating views, with the mist hanging low over terraced hillsides and dugout canoes gliding through still waters. Ssese Islands in the oceanic-sized Lake Victoria has some of the finest white-sand beaches and burning sunsets; it is the kind of place where you will want to seek out a hammock and bring a good book. Then there is stunning Sipi Falls in eastern Uganda, which is earning a reputation for its uninhibited views of the crashing water. Do not miss the coffee tours, where you will be shown the start-to-finish process at a local coffee plantation, all culminating with a delicious steaming cup as the sun sets over the banana plantations.

Kate Morgan

8 Nov 2011

http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20111107-uganda-the-pearl-of-africa

Average Rating: 4.4 out of 5 based on 155 user reviews.

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by Roy -

This article is written by Shobita Louis.

Shobita encountered the pink flamingos of Nakuru and other dangerous beasts in Kenya this June and lived to tell the tale! She heads out Outbound Operations team in Mumbai.

The land of smiles…the land of raw sensual beauty…the land where a Wanderer like me turns into a poet. Searching for paradise had me narrow down on the God’s own playground – Africa. I headed out to the enchanted landscape at the time of the Great Migration – (That time of the year, when thousands of wildebeest start migrating from Serengeti in Tanzania to Maasai Mara in Kenya in search of pasture. The magnificent spectacle that is exhilarating is perhaps, one of the greatest events (if not the greatest) in the world. As you watch helpless and weak wildebeests succumb to the strong gripping jaws of the crocodiles and the raging waters of the Mara River, fighting for dear life – sometimes losing and other times winning, you cannot help but pay tribute to their ‘kamikaze’ odyssey.

The confusion unfolds as the sheer mass of wildebeest, and zebra break into a desperate stampede of survival to greener pastures and calving grounds after four long months of trekking).

The Great Migration was a siren’s call to come out and explore the stage and be witness to the dance between the hunter and the prey.

I landed in Nairobi – wet , grey and cold – the cacophony of the metro greeted me. Far from one madding crowd to another. Nairobi city is just another modern city buzzing with activity. Like any other city in the world, the traffic  signals, congested roads, morning rush hour greets the tourist..

But, when I flew to the mara – a few hours later, it was akin to stepping into a whole new world. A world where – the magnificent beauty of the plateau, the plane ride (I flew in the smallest plane ever), the first glimpse of the Masai Mara and the majestic giraffe in a distance – opened up its vista to me.

My abode: Sitting above a sweeping bend in the Talek River, at the confluence of the Maasai Mara’s 4 game-viewing areas, the lodge that I was staying in enjoyed one of the most spectacular locations in the entire Mara ecosystem.

What more could I ask for…other than heading out for my first game drive – which happened immediately after I unpacked my bags.

My first game drive: It was in Masai Mara and what a drive it was!

On these wide open rolling grasslands, an incredible variety of different animals at one time await you. A cheetah mother sitting on a termite mound with her punky-looking cubs, while beyond, gazelle, antelope and zebra placidly graze. Giraffes peer curiously through the trees, while elephants pass on silent feet and vultures circle above.

I was lucky to see the elusive leopard and a pride of lioness frolicking in the grass. And this was just my first day in the enchanted land!

My itinerary was a 8 day sojourn – and every day was like opening Pandora’s box of delights. It’s amazing just how close you can get to the local wildlife – a baby hippo riding on his mother’s back, hearing the laugh of the hyenas, shadowing the king of the jungle – the lion, the baboons, the graceful flight of the gazelle – the list is endless when it comes to Africa.

Average Rating: 4.4 out of 5 based on 235 user reviews.

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by Roy -

This article is written by Meenakshi Bhalla, a Businesswoman  and a travel writer, based in Mumbai, India

Of course travel entails physical movement from one place to another. But some of the most experiential ways to travel is of course the culinary travel, one of my most favourite ways to see and smell and experience the new cultures.

Macaroni Bechamel

Egypt was a delight of a discovery if the cuisine appeals to the palate, like it did for me. Egyptian cuisine consists of the local culinary traditions of Egypt and makes great use of vegetables and sprouts of many kinds. Probably because of the rich Nile delta that produces large quantities of high quality crops.

Bread forms the backbone of Egyptian cuisine, consumed by all classes is largely accompanied with beans. Bread was central to all food in Egypt, just as much as the roti or rice is as a staple to India. Infact an interesting anecdote was narrated to me about breads in Egypt – more than an occasional fight has broken out over bread, leading to fear of bread riots in Egypt. So yep bread is serious business there. Very central to food consumption.

Egyptian Kushari

The one dish that caught my fancy so totally in Egypt was Kushari made of lentils, rice, macaroni, chickpeas and tomato sauce and yummy fried crisp onion shavings as toppings to add the right crunch to a tasty wholesome meal. For a vegetarian this dish is full of goodness and nutrition, tasty and has a delicate flavour, very close to home grown food for me:)The other favourite of mine was and is the fresh herbs mixed with spicy tomato salad (almost like the salsa) which is stuffed in aubergines and then baked or deep fried in butter. Lip smacking yummy! Mulukhiyya is another popular green soup made of finely chopped leaves, coriander and fried garlic that gives it the bite needed for the locals to feel the food. I find the garlic to be over powering and hence not one of m most favoured among the many dishes I absolutely loved there.

While I was there and did not partake in the non veg fare I could see that non veg food is a way of life there just as much as eating fresh vegetables is. In many nations I have seen people slant one way or another but in Egypt the Egyptians eat in a balanced manner, the kebabs and the koftas are accompanied with a healthy helping of veggies and salads that make for wholesome food.

The other dishes that blew me away so completely – the famous rice dish! It’s a dish where spicy rice is stuffed into vegetables like bell peppers. Absolutely divine and melts in the mouth experience. Then it can also be prepared with rice and tomatoes which in turn is rolled in grapevine leaves and is unmistakably tangy in taste. The same preparation had a variation – can be made in cabbage leaves if you cant deal with the tanginess of the grapevine leaves (I prefer the cabbage leaves) – I found this dish delectable. It is time consuming labour of love, but the ultimate result is a craft and precision that allows for a gastronomic delight.

Asbusa

If you think India is delight for the sweet toothed, think again, India has competition! I went into a pretty similar halwai shop (like our very own Chappan Bhog or Ghasitaram) and the result was I brought back kilos and kilos of fabulous sweets from Egypt into India through customs! The deserts are to absolutely die for! Their pastries and puddings dripping in honey, soft and gentle, tatse that makes you want to over indulge and give 2 hoots about calory intake! Mahallabiya is the Egyptian version of Indian kheer (milk pudding) , Asbusa is like a lovely flaky cookie to have with a good cup of coffee, Asabi gullash has lots of nuts, spices and syrup , these are little finger food snacks and is …yum. Baklava is made in ghee and is horrifically rich, sinful, divine and demands a second helping! As you can tell the food in Egypt is wide varied and something you fall in love with very easily. Basbousa another favourite of mine – a semolina cake coconut based (and to think of it I am not really too fond of Indian coconut based sweets but loved this Egyptian sweet!) with almond, vanilla, rosewater. The true test of good food is when a vegetarian like me endorses that food:)

If I don’t stop writing right away, I will be adding more weight to myself just thinking about all this food. So! My closing thoughts … while all that you have heard of Egypt about its mysticism and what not is true but the real Egypt lies in the food – give me my last morsel from Egypt and I will reach jannat!

Meenakshi Bhalla

2009

http://meetravels.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2009-03-29T08:08:00-07:00&max-results=10

Average Rating: 4.9 out of 5 based on 218 user reviews.

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by Roy -

This article is written by Nikhil Hemrajani.

I can count the number of times I’ve awoken at dawn, without any assistance, on the fingers of one hand. In most cases, it wasn’t pleasant. But this time, from my beachfacing bedroom on Michamwi Beach, Zanzibar, has all the remarkable qualities I could ask for.

Zanzibar, a large island off the coast of Tanzania, derives its name from the term Zinj el-Bar, which was coined by Arab traders around the third century. It means Land Of The Blacks. It’s 6 am and my Greek-styled Spartan white room is flooded with the first light of dawn. Drawing away the mosquito nets that enshroud the bed, I walk onto the porch of our boutique villa. There, in the middle of the beach, amidst the incoming tide, is a monstrous limestone rock. It looks so alien in its environment, almost as if someone planted it there. But that’s not all. Some enterprising soul has built a restaurant atop it. There’s even trees growing on this thing; you can see their roots reaching out, eager to meet the crabs, barnacles and corals below.

You can walk over to the rock during low tide or have the restaurant’s boatman take you there during high tide. Right now, at 6:15 am, as the boat gently bobs up and down in the glassy water, the sky’s a dull grey-blue with a smattering of clouds. I pull out my camera hurriedly to capture the moment when the sun breaches the surface of the Indian Ocean — like a deoxygenated diver steadily making his ascent. I want to get closer to the action, but the tide is high and walking into the water isn’t a wise choice.

Michamwi isn’t your typical tropical island beach. The seabed, even in ankle-deep water, is awash with dead coral. A wrong footing could end up giving you a nasty cut. And may God help you if you accidentally step on a trepid sea urchin. As a local beach boy puts it, “You step on one and you won’t be able to stand up again.”

Spherical and spiny, sea urchins are the porcupines of coral-land. These creatures, from the same family as sea cucumbers and starfish, help maintain the coral reefs’ delicate eco-system. But they’re not nice at all when concealed in seaweed or hidden in cracks between rocks. The black sea urchins that populate the beaches around Zanzibar have spines that can reach up to a foot in length. Even the native Zanzibari people, who cultivate seaweed (that gets exported to China) in the shallow water, wade out wearing thick-soled shoes.

The angular rays of the sun now begin to hit the beach’s pristine white sand and highlight something peculiar. Michamwi’s ‘sand’ isn’t actually sand — it’s more like minute bits of shells mixed with the occasional grain of sand. This is in stark contrast to, say, the sand on Matemwe Beach that’s further up north, which is so consistent that you’ll have a hard time differentiating it from corn flour.

Dolphins in Zanzibar

As my camera zooms in on the horizon, there’s a splash in the distance. It’s a school of dolphins, and one jumps out of the water, disappearing just as quickly.

A concierge from the villa walks up, saying “mambo”, which is Swahili for “How’re things?” If everything’s cool, you reply, “Poa”. He asks if I’d like my glass of bungo juice right now. Bungo, a fruit native to Tanzania, tastes like a mix of mango, pineapple and orange. It’s an excellent refresher, especially after cycling on the beach under the midday sun. Passion fruit with avocado is a good choice too, but bungo gets first priority, if only for its novelty.

It’s 6:30 am as I crawl back into my bed. There’s a lot in store: the rest of the trip includes completing a scubadiving course; taking a trip with Captain Kikoko into a bog to see wader birds like flamingos; visiting the ancient but still habited Stone Town; and taking a relaxing swim in the much safer, turquoise waters of Paje Beach.

Stone Town Zanzibar

But right now, it’s time for another nap.

Nikhil Hemrajani

14 Nov 2011

http://travel.hindustantimes.com/featured_destination/destination/zanzibar.php

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by Roy -
This article is written by Chaitali Patel
Morocco, located on the north-western tip of the African continent feels like Europe and the Middle East rolled into one. When you’re there, it’s hard to tell that you are in Africa. Morocco is often described as one of the greatest shows on Earth. During our trip, the country fitted this description completely.
Casablanca, Morocco
Our two-week journey started from Casablanca, considered a city of romance. The actual city of Casa, as it is commonly known, is very different from this popular notion. But it is a city with soul and that’s what makes it special.

Majestic mosques…
In Casa, the majestic Atlantic Ocean provides a beautiful backdrop to the stunning Hassan II Mosque, the third largest mosque in the world after the mosques in Mecca and Medina. This mosque, the brainchild of the late King Hassan II, is undoubtedly a masterpiece of modern Moroccan architecture. Built entirely of material sourced from across Morocco, except for the chandeliers and a small quantity of white marble that came from Italy, this structure will take your breath away.
At dusk this ochre-coloured building turns to gold and looks as if it is emerging out of the ocean. The mosque can seat 25, 000 worshippers inside. If you include the open area surrounding the structure, then an astounding 80, 000 worshippers can pray together.

… And bustling markets
A three hour train ride from Casa will take you to Fes — a still living medieval city that was once the capital of Morocco. Once inside the majestic gates, we were transported to another era.
There are 9, 000-odd alleyways that crisscross the city and stalls that sell everything you can imagine. With rows of butchers, vegetable and fruit vendors, olive sellers, sellers of natural medicines and magic  potions, leather tanneries and numerous old riads (traditional Moroccan houses), Fes will overwhelm your senses.
But the city of souqs (markets) is Marrakech, the tourist capital of Morocco. The main square, Djemma El Fna, comes alive as the sun sets. Rows of twinkling lights, smoke from the open ovens, delicious smells and Gnawa music will pull you towards the square no matter where you are. From snail soup to camel meat, almost all local Moroccan food can be found here.  The square stays alive way past midnight as shoppers tired from their daylong bargaining join the locals to unwind.

The Djemaa El Fna Square In Marrakech

Marrakech is also the city of gardens. You’ll find traditional Moroccan rose gardens lining the famous Koutoubia mosque and the colourful and mysterious Jardin Marjorelle, created by the French artist Jacques Marjorelle.

True illumination

The Todra Gorge, Morocco
But a few days of taking in the mayhem of the souqs will leave you pining for some fresh air and quiet surroundings. It was at this juncture that we took off on a two-day trek to the Ourika Valley, part of the High Atlas mountain range. We spent the night at a local village up in the mountains. Our treat after the long climb, apart from the wonderful home cooked tajine and couscous was the fantastic, clear night sky, illuminated with thousands of stars. We followed this up with a visit to the Todra gorges — magnificent rock formations that change colour as the sun rises and sets.
The last part of our journey was to the Great Sahara desert. An hour-long camel ride at sunset took us to our little campsite under the stars. They say that desert nights are spectacular. But sunrise is no less of a spectacle. As day breaks, the sand turns into a rich red. The silence and vastness of the desert calms and humbles you. Like everything else in Morocco, it makes you want to come back for more.
Getting there

Most major airlines fly directly to Morocco or connect via other destinations in Europe, Asia or Africa. Jet Airways flies directly to Menara (Marrakech), while Air France-KLM connects via Paris.

Chaitali Patel

22 Jan 2010

http://travel.hindustantimes.com/travelogues/the-riches-of-a-desert-country.php

Average Rating: 4.5 out of 5 based on 208 user reviews.

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