by Roy -

This article is written by Savitha Subramanium

The Gangtey Valley, Bhutan

Albeit a little late to sit down and pen my thoughts about Bhutan, I had no one else to blame but me – simply because Bhutan, the land of the Thunder Dragons still had ‘that’ effect – which had me at loss for adjectives about the place. That, and ofcourse, the post vacation hangover – which translates into getting back into the routine.

But as I sit down to pen this blog post, my mind is flooded with the images of Bhutan – The land of the Thunder Dragon; The country which measures the happiness of its citizens ; One of the claimants to the title- Shangri-la! Anyone who visits this tiny Himalayan kingdom nestled between the two Asian giants (India and China) would be blown away by its beauty, culture and serenity.

As someone who believes that travel is an experience, a journey and not just visa stampings I take a lot of efforts to plan my vacations. It’s important that the travel is enjoyable and appealing to the varied tastes of my husband, my two kids and myself. Vacations and destinations have always been very close to my heart – simply because I feel that it is escapism from the normal rigours and the highlight should be fun filled family time.

And, lo behold came Wanderers – who understand the kind of traveller you are, your expectations, budgets and adds their own expert advice to it. And in this case, I had Alifiya – my little vacation genie, if I could call her that! With the Wanderers, the destination holds a close thread to their heart. And the magic of the country begins from the moment they sit across and bring the country alive with their words.

Bhutan is awe inspiring from the moment you start flying over the Himalayas and land into a breathtaking valley. I felt like applauding the pilot for that amazing flight. The itinerary was not too rigid and we were ready to put our feet up and enjoy.

Due to weather vagaries we couldn’t do the hike to Taktsang monastery. But the trips to Thimphu, Punakha, Wangdue, Bumthang and Trongsa exposed us to the beauty of this nation and their culture. And the view of Taktsang left us in awe! The hypnotic quality that the place possesses is something that the guide books could never do justice.

Butter Paint Taktsang Monastery

And of course, we had a fantastic guide and a driver – which made the trip all the more pleasurable. Extremely helpful and resourceful, they knew the ins and outs of the land and little quaint details which I’ve believed is very important to making your trip memorable. Excellent hotels and I would recommend the Kyichu properties which definitely gets thumbs up from us! Indian vegetarian food is available at most good hotels and resorts. And what helps is also the fact that the Bhutanese have lot of regards for Indians and it feels nice to see their warm hospitality.

Travel books, magazines, blogs and websites don’t do justice to any place. Because, if you have to feel the magic of the land, you need to pack your bags and head out. Let the country envelop you in its folds…let the magic of the monasteries and the snow capped mountains mesmerise you.

Simply put – you must visit the country to enjoy it.

Bhutan is a jewel in our neighbourhood. You don’t need a Visa to travel to Bhutan from India.  Between penning my thoughts and going back to the captured images, I’m promoting Bhutan as a destination to all my friends. And if a tailor-made trip is what you have in mind, then the Wanderers is your destination.

Savitha Subramanium

10 Feb 2011

http://www.thewanderers.travel/blog/index.php/the-magic-of-bhutan-savitha-subramaniam-the-wanderers/

Average Rating: 4.6 out of 5 based on 256 user reviews.

[ | | | | ]

by Roy -
The Punakha Dzong, “the palace of great happiness or bliss”
There are many ways to see Bhutan. A short trip for a week or less will introduce you to the world’s last remaining Himalayan kingdom, with visits to the Paro and Thimphu valleys and perhaps an excursion to Punakha, the ancient capital. In Paro you can visit the Ta Dzong National Museum, with its fascinating collection of art, relics and artifacts; the ruined fortress of Drukgyel Dzong where Bhutanese warriors fought in past ages against invaders from Tibet and where Bhutan’s sacred mountain, Jomolhari, towers above the ruins into the sky. One of Bhutan’s most famous sights, Taktsang or the Tiger’s Nest, clings to a 3000 ft high cliff above the Paro valley; it is the place where Guru Rinpoche is said to have flown on a tiger when he brought the Buddhist Dharma from Tibet and India.

Paro – the beginning of your journey Normally, Paro is both entry and Exit point of Bhutan there can be few more charming valleys to be welcomed by, or from which to remember the land of the Thunder Dragon. As you climb down from the aircraft and take your first breath of Bhutanese air, you will be struck by the silence and peace of Paro’s valley. A destination all of its own, Paro is home to the national museum and watchtower to one of the oldest and most celebrated dzong in all Bhutan. At 7, 382 ft Paro is the site of Bhutan’s only airport and is the most beautiful western valley.

Taktshang-Monastery-Paro

Paro Town is small but one of the most beautiful town in Bhutan. This beautiful valley is home to many of Bhutan oldest monasteries and temples. Mt. Jomolhari (7, 300 M) reigns in white glory at the northern end of the valley whose glacier water forms the Pachu flowing through the valleys.

Apart from commanding a slightly elevated strategic point overlooking the longest stretch of the Paro Valley, Paro Dzong is symbolic as the religious and secular centre of all affairs of the valley. It Is also an architectural wonder, setting the tone for official dzong.  Throughout the kingdom and inviting the visitor to wonder at the cultural strength of the kingdom’s heritage. The dzong itself was conceived in the 15th century and finally consecrated In 1646. Above the dzong is the old watchtower which is now home to Bhutan’s national museum. The museum’s collection includes ancient Bhutanese arts and artifacts, weapons and stamps, birds and animals. This is typical of the eclectic beauty of Bhutan – its prized objects bear little relation to each other but as a whole stand together as a history of one of the world’s most pristine people.

It is said that Guru Rinpoche, the father of the Bhutanese strain of Mahayana Buddhism, arrived in the Paro Valley more than a arrived in the Paid Valley more than a millennium ago on the back of a legendary tigress. He meditated for three months in a cave where a monastery was later built and called Taktsang Lhakang or Tiger’s Nest. Visitors to Paro can take a closer look at the monastery by ascending either on foot or by pony for about three hours to Tiger’s Nest. Walkers can enjoy a well-earned rest at a Taktsang Cafeteria situated at a wonderful vantage point of the monastery.

Thimpu – capital of Bhutan Thimphu is a small, charming capital city sandwiched in the heart of the Himalayas. It sits in its own valley fanning out from the river. The skyline hardly changes as new buildings are all constructed under zoning regulations. Thimphu’s development is strictly monitored and buildings cannot exceed a certain height, nor can they be designed in anything but the traditional Bhutanese style.

The Beautiful Tashichhoedzong monastery and fortress on the northern edge of the city of Thimpu

Only a sprinkling of cars is ever found along the main street and the capital’s population is not immediately visible. But, if you look, inside the bank or the shop, you will find Thimphu’s people and Bhutan’s heart. Dressed in kho and kira, Thimphu people go about their work methodically, quietly bringing their nation through the growing pains of development and into its own definition of the modem world. Sirntokha Dzong, six kms from the city limits is the kingdom’s oldest dzong which is now used as the Dzongka language school of Bhutan. Bhutan’s most stately and arguably most impressive building is Tashicchodzong, on the banks of the Wangchu (Thimphu River).

The home of the National Assembly and the summer residence of the capital’s venerated monastic community, Tashichodzong is a palatial building overlooking the river on the South side and the city of Thimphu from the North. While foreign visitors are only allowed to enter Tashicchodzong during the annual festival, Its presence and its exterior and grounds provide a delightful spectacle. The dzong is the impressive result of a redesign of the original medieval structure sanctioned by His Majesty  Jigme Dorje Wangchuck the 3rd King, when he moved Bhutan’s permanent capital to Thimphu.

The most enjoyable way of passing time in Thimphu is just to wander along its main street. Many of the items on sale are made In India but textiles and the wooden crafts are Bhutanese as are all of the religious products. Thimphu’s weekend market is another chance to watch the way life goes in the kingdom. Here, every weekend, Thimphu’s residents break from whatever it Is that they are doing to come to the market to pick up their weekly stock of vegetables, a copy of Kuensel (the weekly newspaper) and to exchange the week’s gossip. It is a custom as old as the market and one both buyer and seller enjoy. For visitors who can’t share In the gossip, a wander through the stalls reveals mountains of bright red chillies, eggplants and okra, asparagus In season and rice of every size. Traditional Bhutanese masks are sold, as are the carpets more reasonably found in Trongsa.

Another of Bhutan’s loveliest exports is its wide and multifarious collection of stamps. These are best seen in commemorative books inside Thimphu’s central post office. Other places of Interest in Thimphu include the traditional painting school where the age-old styles of Bhutanese painting, including thangka painting, are taught and the Memorial Chorten built in memory of His Majesty, the Third King of Bhutan. The National Library houses a vast collection of books and research documents of Buddhist studies.

Punakha has excellent mountain biking trails.

Punakha – the winter capital The first stop after leaving Thimphu on the journey East is Dochula Pass at 10, 500 feet. Only 45 minutes from Thimphu, it offers visitors their first glimpse of the Himalayan range. The best time to reach Dochula Is dawn when the clouds are thin and the rhododendron are in season. Then the early morning sun casts breathtaking light on the distant mountains framed in shades of red from the brilliant flowers.The road to Punakha branches off left and curls its way down the valley to the relative lowlands of the Punakha Valley. The town of Punakha does not hold many attractions apart from the glorious dzong which dominates the valley floor. Before Thimphu was made capital of Bhutan, Punakha held the title as Winter capital because of its more temperate climate. Thimphu’s monk body and the Je Khenpo (leader of Bhutan’s religious order) still come to Punakha to pass the Winter. Punakha Dzong was strategically built at the confluence of the Phochu (male) and Mochu (female) rivers by the first Shabdrung of Bhutan, Ngawang Namgyel in 1637. It has been destroyed by four fires and an earthquake in 1897 and has frequently been devastated by flood water coming from the great northern glaciers. The Dzong has now been fully restored to its original splendor.

Phuntsholing- the gate way to Bhutan This small modern town in the south is the gateway of Bhutan for overland travellers. Like all other border towns, it is only a prelude. Phuntsholing is fascinating mixture of Bhutanese and Indian, a lively centre for the mingling people, languages, costumes and goods. On top of a low hill at nearby Kharbandi, a small Gompa situated in a garden of tropical plants and flowers, overlooks the town and surrounding plains.

A panoramic view of Phuntsholing town

The Amo Chu, commonly is known as the Torsa river flows alongside this town and it is favorite spot for fisherman and picnickers. From Phuntsholing, the road winds north, over the southern foothills, through lush forested valleys and around the rugged north- south ridges of the inner Himalaya to the central valleys of Thimphu and Paro. It is a scenic journey; forests festooned with orchids cover the mountains on either side and exciting hairpin curves greet travelers with colorful sculptures of Tashi Tagye (the eight suspicious sign of Buddhism).
The scenic Wangduephodrang- sha Valley

Wangduephodrang- sha valley A 45-minute drive from Punakha is Wangduephodrang or Wangdue as it’s more familiarly known. At 4, 300 ft Wangduephodrang is distinguished primarily by its dzong, which completely covers the spur of a hill and commands excellent views of both the east-west and north-south routes. A bustling market with well-stocked shops and a pretty view over its own valley and Dzong. Wangdue is a good place to stretch your legs and wander around the shops before heading East.
Black Necked Cranes at Gangtey Gompa

Gangtey Gompa- Home of black Neck Cranes Spotting black-necked cranes in the meadows next to Gangtey Gompa is an ornithologist’s delight. Every winter, the rare and most beautiful black-necked cranes migrate from the high plains of the Tibetan plateau to Gangtey/Phobjikha valley where they are protected. The short journey South from the main East-West artery is well worth the detour for the dramatic change of scenery. Gangtey is an old monastery, inhabited only in Summer, a few hours’ drive from Wangduephodrang. A broad glacial valley (10, 000 ft) on the flanks of the Black Mountains, Phobjikha with its gently sloping hillsides is a place of astonishing beauty described as “the most beautiful valley in the most beautiful country in the Himalayas”. Gangtey also has a very interesting Nyingmapa monastery, the only one of its kind west of the Black Mountain range.

The Trongsa Dzong, Ancestral Home of The Bhutan Royal Family

Trongsa – crossroads of the Kingdom Ancestral home of Bhutan’s ruling dynasty and site of Bhutan’s most impressive fortress, Trongsa is a strategically located town on the east-west route.Sloping down the contour of a ridge stands the many-levelled Trongsa Dzong, built In 1648. The Dzong acts as a defensive fortress, stepping down into the valley and its bright golden yellow roof occupies most of the view from Trongsa. The Crown Prince of Bhutan traditionally becomes Penlop or Governor of Trongsa before being crowned King.

Trongsa has been the traditional home of all four kings of Bhutan prior to their ascending the throne. Trongsa’s location in the geographic centre of the kingdom has enabled a Penlop to effectively control the entire East and West of the country from there.

Ta Dzong, or the watch tower which once guarded the Dzong from internal rebellion, stands impressively above the Dzong and provides a visitor with more insight into the historical significance of Trongsa in Bhutan’s history. The Ta Dzong, a cylindrical stone structure rising five storeys, was built in 1652 by Chogyal Minjur Tempa, a task entrusted to him by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. After more than 350 years, it has been resurrected into a classy museum, that represents a tasteful blend of tradition and modernity.The galleries showcase more than 200 rare and priceless artifacts, ranging from religious sculpture dating back to the 17th century, to the Raven Crown and Sword of the First King, and numerous other royal possessions, including a radio presented to the Third King by an American businessman in the 1950s. There is also a media room where visitors can watch a documentary on the history of the monarchy. The Ta Dzong was built in 1652. It is situated strategically above the Trongsa dzong and served as a watch tower for centuries.

Bumthang Spirituals valleys This beautiful valley encapsulates a rich culture, Sceni beauty and hundreds of mythis and legends. People often call Mine Switzerland. The drive from Trongsa to Jakar may only take about two hours but the change in scenery is dramatic. It is the straightest section of the entire length of the road from Paro in the West to Trashigang in the East – a distance of about 610 Kilometres.

The hills around Jakar are filled with monasteries dedicated to Padmasambhava who Is said to have cured an ailing ruler and introduced Buddhism to the valley. Bumthang is also home to one of the great Buddhist teachers, Pemalingpa, to whose descendants the present dynasty traces Its origins. Jambay Lhakang and Jakar Tshechu are host to one of the most spectacular festivals in October each year when on one evening of the festival, the monastery is lit by a fire dance to bless infertile women with children.

Ura The last valley in Central Bhutan, Ura Valley, is also the highest in Burnthang. Wide open spaces characterise the valley that sits In the shadow of the Thrumsingla pass, separating the East from the West of the kingdom. Ura village and its new monastery are a charming stop before the climb to the East. Cobbled streets and a medieval feel give Ura an unusual yet very attractive atmosphere. The old women of Ura still wear sheepskin shawls on their backs which double as a blanket and cushion.

Mongar

Mongar – the journey East The differences between East and West Bhutan are far greater than the high pass that separates them. Perhaps like the Scots and the English, there are subtle but marked differences. History has played a significant role with the kingdom only being unified with the East at the end of the last century and prior to that many wars separated each side. The Eastern dialect Is so different from the Western dialect that the two groups find it difficult to understand each other.

Thrumsingla pass and a seven-hour drive separate Ura from Mongar in the East. The journey is one of the most beautiful in all the Himalayas. Rising out of Ura, the highway climbs steeply to the highest pass (3, 800 meters) along the West to East highway at Thrumsingla (during the Winter the pass can be closed for several days after heavy snowfalls) where the mountains of East Bhutan can be seen during clear weather. The descent from Thrumsingla to Lingmithang is astonishing for several reasons. The road drops from 3, 800 meters to 650 meters in only a few hours passing from pine forest through semi-tropical forest to orange groves. Carved out of the side of the mountain, in parts the road’s edge borders a sheer cliff which descends several hundred meters vertically with nothing to stop the fall.
Arriving at Mongar marks the beginning of your Eastern Bhutan experience. Towns in Eastern Bhutan are built on the sides of the hills which contrast to the West where they develop on the valley floor. Mongar Dzong was built In 1953 on the orders of the Third King, Jigme Dorje Wangchuck, The BTCL guesthouse is located near the Dzong enjoying a pleasant view from the garden over the Mongar Valley.

Trashigang Home of The thousand weavers Trashigang is the Easternmost point on the highway. Eastern residents use Trashigang to trade and the town itself is usually a hive of activity – especially around the bus station where buses are frequently leaving for Thimphu and Paro in the West and Samdrup Jonkar and India, only a few hours to the South. Trashigang is also a melting pot of hill tribe people who come in to the town to trade. In particular, the unusual Merak and Sakteng people come to Trashigang to trade yak’s butter for the provisions that they need in the mountains. Merak and Sakteng are located about 50 miles East of Trashigang close to the border with India’s Arunachal Pradesh. Trashigang Dzong sits on a jagged piece of land jutting out from the town and is the first land- mark that can be seen from the road winding up to Trashigang. The Dzong was built in 1659 and commands a spectacular view over the valley for which it is the administrative centre. The Dzong is significant for the fact that it only has one courtyard.

Samdrup Jongkhar-exit/entry point of Eastern Bhutan Located in the south-east of Bhutan, the border town of Samdrup Jongkhar is the eastern overland gateway to Bhutan. During winter months eastern Bhutanese come to this trading town to sell their hand-woven textiles and other wares.

Gom Kora Temple

Trashi Yangtse The village of Doksum is a few kilometers past Gom Kora, a small temple on the side of the road. A large boulder sits In the garden of Gom Kora and it is said that if anyone can climb below the rock and emerge from its summit, he will be forgiven of his sins. Doksum is a weaver’s village where the women sit in fair weather on balconies with wooden slats strapped to their backs rocking back and forth to the rhythm of their looms. Tashiyangtse is a small village with a garden aspect and a lovely place from where to launch a couple of hour’s stroll into the surrounding countryside. Chorten Kora is one of the only two such stupas in Bhutan with styles similar. To those found in Nepal and is host to a great festival every March which attracts all of East Bhutan’s residents. The Chorten is entirely whitewashed and ideally situated next to a running brook.

13 Oct 2011

http://www.discoverybhutan.com/travelinfo.aspx

Average Rating: 5 out of 5 based on 283 user reviews.

[ | | | | ]

by Roy -

Situated between India and Tibet, Bhutan is a landlocked country with limited access points. That brings to mind the question of how to reach Bhutan in the shortest, fastest way and what the available options are. The Kingdom of Bhutan is spread across the eastern Himalayas, and the popular way to travel in the country is via the winding mountain roads. However, there is more there is more than way to reach Bhutan. You could fly to Bhutan or travel to Bhutan by road.

How to Reach Bhutan by Air

Paro is the international airport of Bhutan. Regular flights operate between Paro and Delhi and Kolkata. If you are traveling to Bhutan from Nepal, you can avail of direct flights to Paro from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. All flights to Bhutan are operated by Druk Air, which is the national carrier of Bhutan.

Paro is a scenic valley-town of gurgling streams, quaint houses and old monasteries, hemmed in by the Himalayas. It is just a 2-hour drive from Thimpu. Car rentals and government bus services are available for the journey from Paro to Thimpu.

Druk Air currently operates two Airbus A319-114 with seating capacity of 124 passengers including 8 Business Class seats. Druk Air flight operates to Paro, Bhutan from Bangkok daily, two to four times a week from Delhi and Kathmandu, twice or thrice a week from Kolkata, Bagdogra and Dhaka, which originates from Bangkok. In Bangkok, Druk Air uses the new airport (BKK) Suvarnabhumi International Airport.

Druk Air flight booking is centralized in Thimphu, Bhutan. It is not an IATA member and currently it cannot be booked on any Global System (GDS). Druk air do not accept Credit card payments.

Druk Air Flight Schedules, Fares regional Flights

    Druk Air fares – Coach or Economy Fares  in US $
    Sector Season Fare
    		 Off season fare
    (Jun, July…)    		 Taxes + Y-Fuel Surcharges
    PARO – DELHI 315 237 31
    DELHI- PARO 315 237 46
    BANGKOK- PARO 360 270 37
    PARO -BANGKOK 360 270 31
    KATHMANDU – PARO 190 143 31
    PARO – KATHMANDU 190 143 31
    KOLKATA- PARO 190 143 18
    PARO – KOLKATA 190 143 31
    Druk Air fares – Business Class Fares in US $
    PARO – DELHI 380 285 81
    DELHI – PARO 380 285 96
    BANGKOK -PARO 440 330 37
    PARO -BANGKOK 440 330 31
    KATHMANDU -PARO 230 173 31
    PARO – KATHMANDU 230 173 31
    KOLKATA- PARO 230 173 68
    PARO- KOLKATA 230 173 81
    Infant Fare: 90% discount on the base fare for Infants (below the age of 2years)
    Child Fare: 33% discount on base fare for Children (below 12 years on the date of travel)
    Student Discount: 25 % discount on base fare for Student (must be below 25 years of age and proof to show that one is a full time student, including ID card)
    Group Discount: For every 11th passenger, there is 50% discount on 1 pax or OR 1 person travel free for every 16th passengers. All passengers must be traveling on the same route and purchasing flight tickets at the same time. Taxes and insurance etc are still charged.

    How to Reach Bhutan by Road

    There is no rail network within the country and travelers can gain access to Bhutan by means of road transport – buses, private cars, which are authorized by the government of Bhutan. All parts of Bhutan are well-connected by a network of roads. If you are planning to reach Bhutan from India, the point of entry is the border town of Jaigaon. It is about 150 kms from Siliguri, the furthest that you can get near Bhutan by rail. A stately gate separates the Indian town of Jaigaon from the Bhutanese town of Phunsoling. Cars are available for hire from Siliguri to Jaigaon. You can book the very same car to take you to Bhutan or on reaching Jaigaon, get in touch with local tour operators to book a car for your tour to Bhutan and back.

    The laws for traveling to Bhutan are stricter for people of other nationalities than of India and China. The purpose of such laws is to preserve its environment and culture. Both the touring party and the car rental company need to acquire permits to be in Bhutan for a given length of time

    The ornate border gate between Bhutan and India

    13 Oct 2011

    Collected from various sources

    Average Rating: 4.6 out of 5 based on 248 user reviews.

    [ | | | | ]

    by Roy -

    King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck and his bride Jetsun Pema take part in a purification ceremony at the Punkaha Dzong during their wedding ceremony in Bhutan’s ancient capital Punakha, October 13, 2011

    Bhutan’s “Dragon King, ” its charming, American- and British-educated and immensely popular monarch, married his longtime girlfriend Thursday, kicking off three days of celebration in this tiny Himalayan country.

    PUNAKHA, Bhutan — Bhutan’s “Dragon King, ” its charming, American- and British-educated and immensely popular monarch, married his longtime girlfriend on Thursday, in a small, private ceremony mixing Buddhist spirituality and medieval tradition, in the heart of an ancient monastic fortress in the country’s former capital.

    Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuck, the 31-year-old Oxford graduate and fan of basketball and Elvis, solemnly placed an embroidered silk brocade crown on the head of his beautiful but slightly nervous-looking bride, 21-year-old Jetsun Pema, to make her his queen.

    He then sat back down on the Golden Throne and placed his Raven Crown on his own head, his new wife sitting to his left and a giant golden Buddha towering behind them.

    Earlier, in the most sacred part of the ceremony, the king, his father and the country’s chief abbot, the Je Khenpo, had sought the blessings of the Shabdrung Namgyel, a lama who unified the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan in the seventeenth century and whose embalmed body is preserved in a small chamber within the fortress, or dzong.

    Access to the chamber is so restricted not even the royal bride was allowed to enter.

    Instead, she prayed and prostrated herself in an outer chamber before the king’s father emerged to place around her neck five scarves blessed by the Shabdrung, and presented her with a golden chalice containing curd that had been transformed into holy ambrosia.

    Later, the ceremony moved to the throne room where she prostrated herself before the king himself. She then presented him with the cup of ambrosia from which he sipped, before crowning her. Monks chanted blessings for the royal couple while long trumpets droned and offerings were made for their wellbeing and long life.

    The ceremony kicks off three days of celebration in this tiny Himalayan land that is slowly but steadily emerging into the modern world.

    The bride is the daughter of an airline pilot whose family has long known the royals. Family friends said it was a love marriage between a couple who had already been living together for eight months. Nevertheless, the fact the bride’s family come from the country’s elite and are of seemingly impeccable character helped smooth the way, as did the royal astrologers’ views on their compatibility.

    Announcing his engagement in May, Wangchuck told the country’s parliament the most important qualities in a queen are that she be a good human being as well as unwavering in her commitment to the people and the country.

    “As my queen, I have found such a person and her name is Jetsun Pema, ” he said at the time. “While she is young, she is warm and kind in heart and character. These qualities together with the wisdom that will come with age and experience will make her a great servant to the nation.”

    Wangchuck’s father, the country’s revered fourth king, introduced to the world the philosophy of Gross National Happiness, the idea that spiritual and mental well-being matter as much as money, and that material gain should not come at the expense of the environment or culture.

    Then, in 2006, he used his absolute power to force democracy on his adoring and reluctant people, before abdicating in favor of his son, a move that looks ever more visionary as the years go by. The country’s first-ever elections and the young king’s coronation followed two years later.

    It was a tough act for the young son to follow, but he has more than lived up to the task, observers say. Where the father is reserved and austere, the son is warm, natural and engaging. While the elder king’s subjects would not dream of looking him in the eye, they find themselves laughing and joking with the son.

    To the constant exasperation of his security detail, the young king never misses the chance to mix with people at public events, playing barefoot soccer with schoolchildren or hugging and comforting an old woman so overcome at seeing him that she burst into tears.

    His looks once earned him the nickname “Prince Charming” when mobbed by female admirers on a trip to Thailand. His personality has earned him the more lasting title of the “People’s King.”

    The king’s youthfulness and worldly experience have also made him the perfect bridge between Bhutan’s tightly guarded ancient traditions and the country’s rapidly expanding younger generation. He has become a symbol of unity and stability in a country grappling with momentous changes, and that is why the royal wedding has assumed such symbolic importance here.

    “It is a very important assertion of continuity, because a wedding implies a new generation, and for a hereditary monarchy that is very important, ” said Michael Rutland, who first came to Bhutan from Britain in 1970 to tutor the teenage boy who became the fourth king and ended up spending most of the rest of his life here.

    Sangay Khandu, at 33 a youthful member of the country’s upper house of parliament, puts it even more simply: “It gives us comfort when we are really vulnerable, ” he said.

    Wangchuck’s father had four wives — four sisters he married in a mass ceremony — in a country where polygamy was not unusual. Although the fourth king’s wives always walked a step or two behind him, the younger Wangchuck holds his fiancee’s hand everywhere they go and scandalized traditionalists by kissing her on the cheek in public.

    “The fourth king was another world, another time, but this is another generation, another country, ” said Francoise Pommaret, an ethnologist, historian, author and expert on Bhutan.

    The royal secretariat likes to portray Pema as a commoner. In one version of events the two met at a picnic when she was 7 and he was 17; she reportedly came up to him and gave him a hug.

    But what is less publicly celebrated are her family’s long-standing contacts with the royal family in a country where a small elite have long had a tight hold on power: Her paternal great-grandfather was lord of the eastern province of Tashigang, and her maternal grandfather was the half-brother of the wife of Bhutan’s second king.

    The fourth king’s in-laws were not popular, widely accused of abusing their powers to enrich themselves with monopolistic controls of the sandstone and timber industries. The fifth king’s first move as monarch, an immensely popular one, was to end those monopolies through nationalization. The fact that his new bride’s parents are not business people likely stood in her favor.

    Before graduating from Oxford with a degree in political science, Wangchuck was also educated at the Cushing Academy and then Wheaton College in Massachusetts, where he played varsity basketball.

    A U.S. Embassy cable in 2005 released by WikiLeaks revealed he not only held a “very positive opinion” of the United States but was also a fan of the NBA and the Philadelphia 76ers. After a couple of games with the embassy basketball team, the political officer at the time said he was “a natural two-guard, ” had a good shot and ball control, and was “quick enough to drive the lane to score.”

    He’s also a fan of Elvis Presley and was occasionally known to impersonate the singer at karaoke performances in his youth. These days he is an accomplished artist and photographer, according to his official biography, clearly sharing interests with his new bride who is described as “passionate about fine arts and painting.”

    Although his father enjoyed absolute powers, the fifth Druk Gyalpo or “Dragon King” is a constitutional monarch. Although he assiduously avoids meddling in politics, his influence remains substantial in a country that has long looked to the monarchy for guidance.

    Wangchuck has spent most of his short reign touring his mountainous country and listening to his people — his stated aim is to meet all 650, 000 of his subjects — and he retains the powerful tool of “kidu, ” roughly translated as His Majesty’s welfare.

    Under kidu, the granting of government land to the landless and poor remains a royal prerogative, and it is a role the king has embraced on his travels. Kidu also allows subjects to approach the king with grievances, and villagers frequently wait by the roadside when they know he is passing.

    With a team of secretaries from the royal chamberlain’s office taking meticulous notes for possible follow-up, getting the king’s ear remains a valuable asset for the citizens of today’s Bhutan.

    “This is not a photocopy of the Western form of democracy, neither is it a celebration of the past, ” said the king’s press secretary, Dorji Wangchuck. “But it is a genuine attempt to see how Western democratic practices can be merged with traditional forms of governance, where the king and the government are seen to be more caring and at the service of the people.”

    Simon Denyer

    13 Oct 2011

    http://www.washingtonpost.com/world/wedding-of-bhutans-beloved-young-king-seen-as-another-step-toward-modernization/2011/10/12/gIQA2HDgfL_story.html

    Average Rating: 4.6 out of 5 based on 169 user reviews.

    [ | | | | ]